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Domaine Comte Abbatucci

When ancestral known-how meets innovation in the vineyards of South Corsica.

The steep mountains of the "Île de Beauté", the paradisiacal beaches and the Mediterranean climate... Indeed, wine is not the first thing that comes to mind when one thinks of Corsica. Yet, this region is home to some of the best ancestral vineyards, saved from extinction.

It is by cultivating the natural elements and the passion of the soil that the Domaine Comte Abbatucci's wines will become a true reference for the oenophiles. It all began in the 16th century, when the Abbatucci family, belonging to the nobility, settled in Corsica and established their family estate on several hectares. Although viticulture was not their main activity, they decided to produce wine for private or local consumption. This will give Jacques Abbatucci, one of the descendants of the family, the desire to learn the art of cultivating the vineyard in the Corsican heights, in the valley of Taravo, south of Ajaccio.

Blossoming in this universe, Jacques will plant, from 1920, a myriad of Sciaccarellu, Niellucciu, Barbarossa and Carcajolo grape varieties, which will give life to the first vintages of the Domaine Comte Abbatucci. He passed on his passion to his son, Antoine Abbatucci, who succeeded him in the 1960s and created a veritable living museum of all the Corsican grape varieties, which were then threatened with extinction. With the help of an agricultural engineer and an oenologist, he initiated studies to survey these ancient grape varieties and identify those with the highest potential. Thanks to his determination, the cellars now house an exceptional collection of 18 endemic grape varieties, constituting a true wealth for the island's wine heritage.

The family legacy will then continue with the arrival of Jean-Charles Abbatucci, Antoine's son, who will propel the Domaine to a higher level by creating new tasty and unique vintages. An ardent defender of the island's indigenous grape varieties, he will implement a biodynamic culture, whose principles are based on the influence of lunar and planetary rhythms, but also a rigorous massal selection: it allows replanting a plot or changing a dead grape plant, using the shoots of the best existing plants. This makes it possible to maintain a superior quality of production, especially when the vineyard has old grapes with excellent genetics. Thus, nature remains at the heart of the culture of the vineyards: they are ploughed with horses, the grassing is controlled thanks to ewes and to the use of homeopathic preparations containing plants, with curative and energizing virtues.

Moreover, Jean-Charles is not the only passionate member of the family. The siblings make up an excellent gastronomic trio! Jacques Abbatucci, the eldest, is a breeder of calves and tiger cows: cattle breed typically from the region, giving a rare meat. As mentioned, Jean-Charles, the middle son, devotes his life to Corsican grape varieties and the production of exceptional wines. As for Henri, the youngest, he runs the restaurant: "Le Frère", in Casalabriva, where he highlights the food produced by his brothers, on his menu.

To return to the vintages of Domaine Abbatucci, they are the expression of the elegance of nature and Corsican culture. With such a careful attention to quality and respect for the land, the grapes are bursting with aromas and flavors, delivering amazing and fresh wines. In the heart of the barrels, the rarest grape varieties are integrated: Barbarossa, Brustiano, Carcajolo Bianco and Pagga Debiti. The wines are characterized by a powerful aromatic profile evoking pulpy and juicy fruits, enhanced by spices.

Nevertheless, an unfortunate incident will occur in June 2021: an accidental fire will hit one of the buildings as well as the ageing cellar of the emblematic Domaine of Jean-Charles: "it's a lot of energy and work that are now gone" he laments. About 170 to 180 hl of wine disappeared in smoke, including a part of the 2020 vintage but also the Diplomate, Ministre and General Collections, of which there is no other backup.

Luckily, the Domaine Comte Abbatucci has a number of exceptional vintages to its credit, all of which are AOC Ajaccio products. Some of them pay tribute to the men of the Abbatucci lineage, who have marked its history.

Let's start with the Diplomate d'Empire vintage which is one of the confidential vintages of the domain and which is widely recognized as one of the great whites of Corsica. It is composed of a blend of Vermentino, Brustiano, Bianco Gentile, Genovese and Rossola Bianca with an intensely fruity aromatic bouquet. On the palate, these flavors are accompanied by the characteristic note of Mediterranean regions, the maquis, which brings freshness and vivacity to the finish. Its name honors Don Jacques-Pascal Abbatucci, a close associate of Napoleon Bonaparte who served as an Empire diplomat in Napoli.

To continue, the vintage Ministre Impérial, made from Sciaccarello, Nielluccio, Morescola, Morescono, Montanaccia, Carcajolo Nero and Aléatico, is distinguished by its aromas of acidic red fruit evolving on woody notes. Its color is a black cherry, with some ruby reflections. This wine is a tribute to Jacques-Pierre-Charles Abbatucci, imperial minister and friend of Napoleon III.

Concerning the prestigious cuvée Général de la Révolution, it associates several Corsican grape varieties such as Vermentino, Rossola Brandinca, Riminese, Carcajolo Bianco, Biancone and Paga Debiti, the whole forming a blend of a rare complexity. This white wine is reminiscent of the Mediterranean with its characteristic mineral perfume of the "Île de Beauté" and its notes of thyme, white flowers and violets. It is an ode to travel and reverie, in memory of an ancestor of the family, also named Jean-Charles, who was a Revolutionary General in the 18th century.

Finally, we come to the Faustine cuvée which is available in rosé, white and red, enough to delight any wine lover! The rosé is entirely elaborated from Sciaccarello, giving the appearance of a pretty rose petal color with citrus and spice aromas. The white wine is made from a selection of 40 years old Vermentino vines, delivering notes of wild fruits, white flowers and a hint of anise. Finally, the red, which is composed of two indigenous grape varieties: Sciacarello and Nielluccio, embodies the power and the maquis. It offers tasty aromas of tanned red fruits. It is in homage to his daughter, that Jean-Charles gave the name "Faustine" to this wine elaborated with love.

All the vintages of Domaine Comte Abbatucci show an astonishing oceanic freshness and an airy balance between finesse and complexity. Notably, thanks to the authenticity of their heritage, to the passion dedicated to the Corsican terroir, but also to the safeguarding of autochthonous grape varieties initially undertaken by Antoine Abbatucci. This vineyard is a true testimony of nature and what it has to offer us, of a historical agriculture and of an ancestral know-how.

DOMAINE COMTE ABBATUCCI - Faustine Red - Bottle of 75 cl
DOMAINE COMTE ABBATUCCI - Imperial Minister - Bottle of 75 cl
DOMAINE COMTE ABBATUCCI - Different cuvées and vintages available.

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2023-04-01